I recently spent a day at becauselondon.com HQ and instead of doing our usual 3 minute make-up films click here, we spent the day filming 4 looks we liked (Beauty Ed Bora Kwon’s job, being a rebel at heart, I try not to take too much notice!) from the A/W12 shows. These included 2 toned ‘pop’ colours on eyes and lips, the ‘contoured face’ reminiscent of Kevyn Aucoin’s 90′s ‘heavy natural’ and ‘gothic romance’.
Then I remembered these pictures I’d taken on my I-Phone (inc instagram) and thought I’d share them….
So here is the gorgeous, 17 year old Amba (at Select Models) bare-faced in the offices of becauselondon. We looked far and wide for someone with freckles, great skin, far-apart eyes and a good mouth. These aspects are great for make-up as fair skin and hair does mean versatility when you’re doing beauty trends.
Amba’s skin didn’t need much prepping but I always like to make sure that the skin feels a bit ‘tacky’ to the touch. I LOVE to apply serums or gels underneath make-up like Eve Lom’s Intense Hydrating Serum, Sarah Chapman’s Skinsesis Hydrating Booster, Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 or Astalift Jelly. If skin is particularly dry, or I am working with non-teenage subjects, then a hydrating cream like this ‘Soft Creme’ by Creme De La Mer is fabulous-but pricey! Jurlique, Ren and Weleda are also great and less pricey and contain no cheap petro-chemical carrier oils like everything you’ll find in high street chemists.
If I’m doing a beauty job and my subject’s skin has a dry, flakey build-up (often confused with dry skin), I swear by Karin Herzog Mild Scrub, I’ve been using it for about 15 years on myself and I have never found a better scrub.
Some poor assistants in the past have felt my wrath after they’ve smeared greasy industry favourite Embryolisse all over the girls faces at shows.. It’s a great overnight cream or for use when flying but to add such a layer of stuff underneath make-up is anathema to me.
Bare-faced Amba getting her hair prepped by Ayo Laguda.
Two Toned Lip
For near to perfect skin like Amba’s, I used very little base. As a general rule, I only use base where skin is less than perfect, my aim is to make the imperfect skin replicate the best area of skin on the face. The lighting at the becauselondon office is fabulous, huge banks of windows so I can see everything.
My favourite bases are MyMix by MyfaceCosmetics.com, Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua which I combine with either Clinique Airbrush or Touche Eclat under the eyes with a mix of the peach-orange under-eye concealers in the Bobbi Brown Pro Concealer Palette. For blemishes, I use the other side which has a denser, drier formula with olive tones designed to neutralize redness. I also use Becca and Laura Mercier Concealers for blemishes for the same reason.
I took this picture before Ayo did the hair, and before I did Amba’s lips or mascara. It was, what filmaker Terence Malick would call ‘The Magic Hour’, my favourite time of day.
And yes I did use a blonde eyebrow pencil to accentuate her freckles!
Ayo’s hands in Amba’s hair above, and another snatched ‘magic hour’ portrait.
The Finished look below.
Two Toned Eyeliner
Below, an instagram of Amba half way through her eyeliner when it’s
Contour (nee ‘Heavy Natural’)
The key to not looking simply dirty and mucky is A: to use a fine veil of loose powder before applying any product and B: To use soft, naturally-edged brushes. Matte shadows work best for this look, so Bobbi Brown eyeshadows, Kevyn Aucoin and Tom Ford Contouring powders work brilliantly. This look was a hot commercial look in the 90′s.
And on Instagram below.